Alternator, Harness, Fusebox -

	The alternator is a Nippon-Denso unit #8172. This is the smallest OEM automotive alternator available. It was stock on 3-cylinder cars, such as the Diahatsu Charade and Chevy / Suzuki Sprint / Swift. No other alternator will fit between block and framerail.
	Even so, I had to clock the rear housing 90-degrees so that the power terminal would face up. In stock form, it would point to the left in this photograph, which makes it bang right into the frame. Clocking required disassembling the *entire* alternator. A lot of work.
	This bracket is so short that I felt comfortable using 1/4" steel to make it. I left the upper ridges from the drill-based slotting because I thought they looked kinda cool.
	Here is a picture of the alternator installed. The belt is a Goodyear #4040342, as it is 34.25" in circumferance. The pulley comes from a Subaru Justy, which gives the 4-rib pattern that matches the Miata. Take the nut from the Justy and it will all fit together real well.
	Here is an image of the ECU mounted along the driver's side kick panel. I simply drilled three holes and used really big sheet metal screws. (The only modifications to the Datsun itself in the entire build.) This placement allows me to use the Miata ECU harness as my entire engine harness; the wires reach from here all the way to the MAF sensor in the far front of the engine bay.
	The Miata has a nice relay rack mounted on the driver's side fender. I didn't want to see it, though, so I modified it to mount in the Datsun's factory mono radio speaker holes high up in the passenger footwell. First I cut the mounting tabs off of the rack itself, and drilled a 3/16" hole at each end.
	Then, I cut and folded a simple bracket to join the rack to the pre-existing holes in the footwell. I used 22-gauge steel because I had an odd-shaped piece laying around. It's a little flimsy; 18- or 16-gauge might be better. When sitting in the car, you really have to tip yourself flat against the transmission tunnel to see this thing.
	This little bracket, made from 1"x1" aluminum angle stock, mounts the Miata's main fuse box to the lower mount hole for the coil bracket on the Datsun. I threaded the two holes you see at 1/4-20 since holding a nut under there would be a real hassle. Note the notch for a bulge in the back of the fusebox.
	The main fuse box looks rather nice and tidy tucked away in the corner, I think. Never mind all the stray wires; I'll tidy them up as soon as I know that the thing runs.
	Early on in the swap preparation, I pulled the room fusebox from a '96 Miata. I liked its compactness. Unfortunately, this was before I learned to cut all leads as long as possible when pulling parts. So, when it came time to install it, I was left with 1/2" to 2" of wire to use. It's been a year and a half, and I never saw another '96/97 box to pull, so I'm working with it.
	To give myself the greatest flexibility, and to do the best I could with what little wire I had to attach to, I put female crimp spades on every wire coming out of the fusebox. I wish I had more wire so at least these could be proper pigtails. In the future I will probably do something cleaner with this.
	Since I have a '94 engine, it's OBD-I, so my diagnostic options are limited. I have a small Radio Shack LED under the dash that used to be my "fan is on" light & now runs to the "check engine" light lead on the ECU.
	These two switches, to the left of the steering column, under the dash, allow me to diagnose: one grounds the "TEN" (test engine) lead from the ECU, which causes the check engine light to blink stored codes. The other activates the brake switch lead to the ECU, which is used to clear stored trouble codes. [In the end, I linked the brake switch lead to the ECU to the brake light pressure switch (as part of the engine harness).]
	Here is a view of the final, wrapped engine harness before installation. I included the oil pressure lead, the brake leads and the (gauge) coolant temperature lead in this harness, as well as ECU-related power leads. There is a separate harness for the general power leads, not shown. Click on the image to see the pig tails labelled.