I
affixed all the mounting nuts for the Honda fuel pump and the ring for
the fuel level sender with JB weld. Not sexy, but it gets the job done.
Lots of #6 sheet metal screws and a thick layer of fuel-resistant
Hylomar gasketing material and the tank is back together.
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The breather tube fitting is a 90-degree elbow: 3/8" hose to 1/4" MNPT.
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The
old fuel line outlet is easy to cap. I forget the specs of the fitting,
but it's the same as the union fitting along the passenger frame rail,
so you can always carry that to the store with you to test fitment.
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I
cut strips of a strange plastic felt from a nearby discount fabric
store to make the isolating belts for above and below the tank. They
should result in the same thickness as the stock felt-like strips.
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Here is a view of the new tank through the access port in the trunk. I would have loved to place the pump farther back, so that it would come out through this hole, but the sump basin was as far back as it would go. I'll never get the fuel level sender out now without dropping the tank. But, at least I can access all the lines and leads from here. | |
The
fuel outlet on the Honda pump is a 12mm banjo fitting leading to a
bizarre steel and rubber hose that is useless in this application. I got
a similar hose off a '93 Acura that had a longer steel portion that I
cut off before the rubber hose and joined to my 5/16 steel lines with
aftermarket 8mm EFI hose.
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The
fuel return on the Honda pump is tiny -- 6mm (1/4"). I split the
difference by using a 7mm diameter EFI hose between the 6mm fitting and
the 8mm line.
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The
fuel filter solution is from a 1993 Nissan Altima. It's easy to grab
from the salvage yard (for the bracket) as it is mounted on the firewall
in the Nissan. I mounted mine in the passenger wheel well. I may end up
making a shield/enclosure for it. We'll see.
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Tuesday, September 6, 2011
Gas Tank and Filter Installation -
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