Fuel Pump Installation -

	I made a few paper templates to figure the smallest area I could cut out and still fit the pump, sump and fuel level sender. I ended up with this rectangle. I drilled out the corners, then cut the panel out with a sabre saw (it did not blow up). Then I drilled out the welds holding on the sender mounting ring and the breather tube.
	The Honda tank is not a simple box, like the Roadster's, so I cut into it with a cold chisel (it did not blow up) to get at the catch can and the complex pump mounting ring (not shown), which I did not use in the end, although most do. If you buy the correct tank, you will not see this catch can, but what follows is how I modified. First I cut off the mounting tabs so that it would sit flat on the bottom of the tank.
	Then, after many fitment tests, I mounted it to one of the baffles with a very large sheet metal screw. A wide fender washer distributes the squeeze of the screw on the plastic wall of the catch can.
	Between the catch can and the baffle is a piece of 1" x 3/4" aluminum channel; it serves as a spacer.
	As mentioned above, the stock Honda pump assembly held the pump too high above the tank bottom for my tastes, so I modified it by cutting the base of the bracket away. Click on the thumb to see before and after.
	With the bracket modified, I could now adjust the height of the pump, and made it so it kisses the bottom of the catch can. The pump is very firmly held by the hose clamp. After this photograph, I replaced the orange rubber with a short section of radiator hose and turned the hose clamp to face down to improve ease of installation.
	If you modify the pump to sit lower as I have, be sure to use in-tank EFI fuel hose for your new, slightly longer hose between the pump and the outlet tubing. Regular EFI hose WILL FAIL, sometimes quite quickly. The hose made by Gates, as a 5/16" side, in 12" lengths. It is Gates #42195185 or #27093 (Napa #H209).